Jewelry has always had a representation of social status in all societies throughout history at some level. From prehistoric times through contemporary times people have been crafting jewelry of their time. 25,000 years ago people began crafting jewelry to adorn the body, represent social and governance status. Religious leaders adorned jewelry to represent their status in society, while the society as whole had the belief of bringing their wealth to the afterlife. Shells, stones and bones were primarily used in crafting the jewelry of that time.
Later at about 12,000 years ago, humans began wearing body jewelry with piercings of the ears, nose and lips which also represented social status.
Around 8000 BC started the copper age and use of metals such as copper to create beads and pins. As the designs became more elaborate in design, gold was being used in the creation of jewelry. Archeology jewelry uncovers upper class tombs filled with gold and gem jewelry. In ancient Egypt, belly button piercing became a symbol of royalty, representing Godliness.
Medieval times (1200 -1500) had a unique design to jewelry that added a more worldly representation to jewelry design. Gems and metals were thought to have powers beyond reality which contributed to the meaning of the design. Much of the folklore represented by jewelry and gems started to fade as people became more self-aware as the renaissance period of time began.
Humanity began a period learning and understanding of nature and the universe. The first “Center of Design” began in Paris, France; strangely enough darning British royalty with gems and gold. Jean-Baptiste Tavernier, a French gem merchant, sold the Hope Diamond to King Louis XIV in 1668; history tells that story. At that time jewelry established clear lines between classes.
Pins and broaches were used to adorn clothing, hats and hair with representations of fish, flowers, birds and other more earthly representations. Sward hilts would come to represent honor, and the most famous collection of jewelry of all times, The Crown Jewels.
As advances in technology were made and techniques were developed, artisanship began to influence the creation and design of jewelry.
More elaborate jewelry and the use of alternate materials began blurring one’s place in society. Jewelry adorned things like bodices, breast plates of women and men of the upper classes. Up to this time I really have to say that the quality of jewelry was of poor craftsmanship, but I look at things most people don’t know what to look for in jewelry.
As the industrial age came to fruition, major advances in refining, gem cutting and jewelry making techniques were developed, with artisanship and craftsmanship having a major influence on the jewelry; which now became an industry. This would set the stage for the change in jewelry design and it’s meaning to society. Jewelers would unite forming The Guild of Handcraft in 1888. Jewelry no longer separated classes as it did before, and it was more something to pass down to the family unit.
Jewelry became a more personal representation of the past and history. New York became a rival fashion center to Paris, adding a Wester influence on jewelry. Bolder pieces with geometric shapes representing the artisan would be the primary meaning behind jewelry allowing jewelry to become more personalized.
Charles Lewis Tiffany was a jeweler that made his mark in history in 1837. Like me, Charles Lewis was a jeweler that mastered in craftsmanship and not design, relying on his son Lewis Comfort Tiffany to provide the artisan design and fashion to the jewelry. Louis-François Cartier was a jeweler that took over a master shop to establish his brand in 1846 in the center of the European center of design, Paris France. De Beers began consolidating mines in 1888 began to begin his legacy providing diamonds to the industry giving the artisan control over the design.
Jewelry basically became a piece people used to adorn the body with that inherently represented their place in society. Jewelry became more unique as the technology and craftsmanship began to develop. The 20th century began with advancements in stone cutting techniques that brought about the use of more color with precious and semiprecious gemstones, as crystal became an alternative to diamond. This was made possible by Daniel Swarovski, a glass maker in 1895.
Jewelry began to lose its meaning to society, and becoming more an object to adorn the body.
Fashion jewelry became popular with designers like Pandora and Coco Chanel creating jewelry that is more affordable using alternative metals and gems, and jewelry became more of an expression of the person.
Today the jewelry design industry caters to the general public giving them the ability to express their individualism, with body jewelry worn more than ever.
For most of history, jewelry has had a totally different meaning or representation than it does today. Currently, jewelry is a form of personal expression as are tattoos, which have been around for about 7,500 years. Together, they give an individual the ability to express themselves more than ever throughout history. As a jeweler I have had the honor to recreating jewelry that was passed down through the generations and I think this is the best time in history to be a jeweler.
